Bil Shami
Traditional Damascene Clothing: What Did Our Ancestors Wear?
Abundant decorations, colors, and symbols characterize traditional old garments. These clothes suited the way of life of people at that time and aligned with the psychological, existential, social, and aesthetic roles of individuals during that period. Let’s introduce you to traditional Damascene clothing.
Women’s Damascene Clothing
The Izzar or black M’layeh: This was the official attire for women in Damascus and other Syrian cities when they left the house. It usually consisted of either a single piece covering the entire body called “M’layeh az-zam,” or two pieces where the upper part from head to waist was called “baralin,” and the lower part from waist to feet was called “kharrata.”
The veil: A black cloth that covered the face, either thick or transparent, known as “mandil georgette.” Over time, the use of the veil to cover the face began to fade away.
Dresses: Inside the house or for important visits, women wore dresses that varied in shapes, colors, and fabrics according to fashion trends. Tailoring took time, so women would start sewing their dresses well in advance of important occasions or weddings.
Men’s Damascene Clothing
Tarboush: A head covering made of felt covered with red cloth. It was called “Turkish tarboush” when it was long, and over time, as it became shorter, it was called “Austrian tarboush.”
Qimbaz: A garment similar to a galabia, which varied in name depending on its fabric or shape. It was called “saya” if made of silk, “sako” if made of foreign wool, and “darbiya” or “madrabia” in colloquial terms if it was a long, striped robe, which was the most popular. If the qimbaz was made of white silk, it was called “roz.”
Zennar (Belt) : Wrapped around the waist over the qimbaz, it was “shamla,” and if embroidered, it was “shall.”
Jacket: Worn over the qimbaz or shirt, called “sutra” if it had buttons and “damer” if it didn’t. You could also line it with various types of fur.
Shoes: Known as “kindara,” similar to modern shoes but without laces. If open from the back, it was “kindara kasr,” and if it had a heel, it was “shoubro.”
Shirwal: Men, especially younger ones, wore shirwal, which were long, loose, and wide pants, tight at the bottom. With the shirwal, there was a “mitan,” similar to a shirt with many small buttons on the front. Over the mitan, they wore a wide-sleeved jacket, and to secure the shirwal, they used a fabric sash called “dakka,” topped with another sash made of aghbani fabric.
Fading Traditon:
With social, political, and economic changes, these traditional attires gradually disappeared, and many members of society transitioned to wearing foreign-style clothes, known as “Mahkamji,” which consisted of a formal suit and tarboush.